Shopkeeper at Evora - Spanish Contrabandistas - Lion and Unicorn -The Fountain - Trust in the Almighty - Distribution of Tracts -Library at Evora - Manuscript -The Bible as a Guide - The Infamous Mary - The Man of Palmella - The Charm - The Monkish System - Sunday -Volney - An Auto-Da-Fe - Men from Spain - Reading of a Tract -New Arrival - The Herb Rosemary.
Evora is a small city, walled, but not regularly fortified, and could not sustain a siege of a day.It has five gates; before that to the south-west is the principal promenade of its inhabitants: the fair on St.John's day is likewise held there; the houses are in general very ancient, and many of them unoccupied.It contains about five thousand inhabitants, though twice that number would be by no means disproportionate to its size.The two principal edifices are the See, or cathedral, and the convent of San Francisco, in the square before the latter of which was situated the posada where I had taken up my abode.A large barrack for cavalry stands on the right-hand side, on entering the south-west gate.To the south-east, at the distance of six leagues, is to be seen a blue chain of hills, the highest of which is called Serra Dorso; it is picturesquely beautiful, and contains within its recesses wolves and wild boars in numbers.About a league and a half on the other side of this hill is Estremos.
I passed the day succeeding my arrival principally in examining the town and its environs, and, as I strolled about, entering into conversation with various people that I met;several of these were of the middle class, shopkeepers and professional men; they were all Constitutionalists, or pretended to be so, but had very little to say except a few commonplace remarks on the way of living of the friars, their hypocrisy and laziness.I endeavoured to obtain some information respecting the state of instruction in the place, and from their answers was led to believe that it must be at the lowest ebb, for it seemed that there was neither book-shop nor school.When I spoke of religion, they exhibited the utmost apathy for the subject, and making their bows left me as soon as possible.
Having a letter of introduction to a person who kept a shop in the market-place, I went thither and delivered it to him as he stood behind his counter.In the course of conversation, I found that he had been much persecuted whilst the old system was in its vigour, and that he entertained a hearty aversion for it.I told him that the ignorance of the people in religious matters had served to nurse that system, and that the surest way to prevent its return was to enlighten their minds: I added that I had brought a small stock of Bibles and Testaments to Evora, which I wished to leave for sale in the hands of some respectable merchant, and that it he were anxious to help to lay the axe to the root of superstition and tyranny, he could not do so more effectually than by undertaking the charge of these books.He declared his willingness to do so, and I went away determined to entrust to him half of my stock.I returned to the hostelry, and sat down on a log of wood on the hearth within the immense chimney in the common apartment; two surly looking men were on their knees on the stones; before them was a large heap of pieces of old iron, brass, and copper; they were assorting it, and stowing it away in various bags.They were Spanish contrabandistas of the lowest class, and earned a miserable livelihood by smuggling such rubbish from Portugal into Spain.Not a word proceeded from their lips, and when I addressed them in their native language, they returned no other answer than a kind of growl.
They looked as dirty and rusty as the iron in which they trafficked; their four miserable donkeys were in the stable in the rear.
The woman of the house and her daughter were exceedingly civil to me, and coming near crouched down, asking various questions about England.A man dressed somewhat like an English sailor, who sat on the other side of the hearth confronting me, said, "I hate the English, for they are not baptized, and have not the law," meaning the law of God.Ilaughed, and told him that according to the law of England, no one who was unbaptized could be buried in consecrated ground;whereupon he said, "Then you are stricter than we." He then said, "What is meant by the lion and the unicorn which I saw the other day on the coat of arms over the door of the English consul at St.Ubes?" I said they were the arms of England!
"Yes," he replied, "but what do they represent?" I said I did not know."Then," said he, "you do not know the secrets of your own house." I said, "Suppose I were to tell you that they represent the Lion of Bethlehem, and the horned monster of the flaming pit in combat, as to which should obtain the mastery in England, what would you say?" He replied, "I should say that you gave a fair answer." This man and myself became great friends; he came from Palmella, not far from St.Ubes; he had several mules and horses with him, and dealt in corn and barley.I again walked out and roamed in the environs of the town.
