1.It was a lovely morning when we once more sighted the river Angara.But，to my astonishment，this was no silent expanse of ice，as I had seen it on the previous night.Before me was a broad，swiftly-running river，its clear waters sparkling like crystal in the bright rays of the rising sun，while on the surface no trace of ice could I discern.
2.We followed the banks of the river all the way to Lake Baikal.I was prepared now for any surprise，after the transformation that had so startled me in the morning；so，when a bend in the road brought us in full view of this vast inland sea，I was not astonished to see that it was still held in the icy grasp of the Siberian winter.The ice commenced at the very mouth of the Angara.From one side of the stream to the other，the line of the ice was as straight as if it had been ruled.
3.Our road now lay along the shore-a sort of rocky beach，reminding me very much of bits of Devonshire.The road in one place left the shore for a short distance，and went right across a little harbour crowded with shipping，where we had to dodge in and out among thevessels，and duck our heads to avoid the ropes and spars.My driver evidently knew the place well，for we went right through the fleet at full gallop，and a few minutes later reached the point at which the journey across the lake is commenced.
4.Try to imagine what it would be like，starting from Dover on a warm，spring-like morning to drive over to Calais or to Boulogne，and you will have some idea of this part of my journey.The opposite shore was quite invisible；and the ice，owing to its smoothness and the unusual absence of snow on its surface，presentedalmost the appearance of a very calm sea under the bright blue morning sky.
5.Lake Baikal is remarkable for the rapidity with which its water freezes when winter sets in.The appearance of the ice depends entirely on the weatherat the time when the water congealed.If the surfacewas then much agitated，the ice everywhere will pre-sent a broken appearance like waves，plainly showing how sudden and irresistible is the icy grasp of the Siberian winter.I am informed that along the coast the curious phenomenon of frozen waves has often been noticed，the curl of the water，and even the foam，being distinguishable in the solid mass.I was fortunate infinding the ice perfectly smooth：it had evidently been a dead calm at the time the frost set in.
6.The road over the lake is indicated by a double row of pine saplings stuck at intervals in the ice；acurious effect being thus produced，not unlike an end-less miniatureboulevard，stretching away till it islost in the distance.I could not help noticing the way the horses are shod for the work.Huge spikes arefastened to their shoes，which，as they gallop along，splinter the ice in all directions，but give them a firm foothold on its treacherous surface.
7.When we were well out in the open，and tearing along at the horses’top speed，the motion was simply delightful.For about a mile from the shore the ice had a thin layer of snow over it；but we gradually left this dazzling white carpet，and at length reached the clear ice，when I saw around me the most wonderful and bewitching sight I ever beheld.Owing to the marvellous transparency of the water，the ice presented everywhere the appearance of polished crystal，and although undoubtedly of great thickness，was so colourless that driving upon it appeared like passing over space.It gave me at first quite an uncanny feeling to look over the side of the sledge down into thedark abyssbeneath.This feeling，however，graduallychanged to one of fascination，till at last I found itpositively difficult to withdraw my gaze from the awful depths.
8.About half-way across，I stopped to make a sketch，and to take some photographs.It was no easy matter；for I found，on getting out of the sledge，that the ice was so slippery that，in spite of my felt snow-boots，I couldhardly stand.The deathlike silence of the surroundings reminded me not a little of my experiences in the ice of the Kara Sea.This wonderful silence was occasionally broken by curious sounds，as if big guns were being fired at some little distance.These sounds were caused by the cracking of the ice.I was told that in some parts of the lake there were huge fissures，through which the water could be seen.For this reason it is advisable to perform the journey by daylight.
9.We reached the opposite coast in four hours and a half，the horses having done the whole distance of over thirty miles with only two stoppages of a few minutes each.It was evidently an easy bit of work for them，as they seemed as fresh when we drew up in the post-yard as when they started in the morning.
